How is it done

To perform the forecast for the Portuguese coast, we use the Wave Watch III numerical model, developed at NOAA/NCEP. To learn more on this model click here.

The model is set up for 3 domains: North Atlantic Ocean, Iberian Peninsula and Portuguese Coast. This 3 domains are nested, meaning the larger domains provide boundary conditions to the smaller domains. All the domains are forced with the GFS wind forecasts with 0.5º resolution.

The model then runs here everyday at 1h00, at IST (Lisbon) and publishes the results everyday (around 6h30 in the morning) with a 7 days forecast.

Below is an example of a simulation when a large swell (over 7m waves) reached the Portuguese Coast in mid-January 2005. The bottom graphic shows the comparison of the model forecast with the Leixoes buoy managed by IH.